Ukrainian costumes in folk dance
Ukrainian headdress
The wreath of flowers with its ribbons counts as the national headdress of Ukrainian women. The wreaths were worn for centuries as amulets and bearers of secret messages. They were also necessary attributes on pagan Slavic holidays. In the Ukraine the wreath is also called the "healer of the soul", because it is believed that a wreath of flowers or fragrant herbs can relieve pain, give strength, calm but also awaken.
According to the rules, twelve flowers and herbs are to be woven into this wreath, each of which symbolises something: mallow, viburnum, herb of immortality, yarrow, forget-me-not, marigold, evergreen, lovage, cornflower, chamomile, poppy and hops.
For example, chamomile was a symbol of virgin purity, while the cornflower and lovage, which are usually intertwined close together, meant fidelity. The herb of immortality represented eternal health, the yarrow represented inflexibility, the evergreen represented immortality of the soul. The mallow was a symbol of faith and hope, viburnum meant health and everlasting beauty, and the hop represented reason and cunning. Only the colour of the poppy meant mourning for the dead, or fallen. As a rule, only widows or girls whose suitors did not return from the war were woven into the wreath.
Each ribbon with which the wreath was decorated had its meaning. For example, green was the symbol of beauty and youth, and purple that of wisdom, deep red spoke of the sincerity and warmth of the girl and pink meant that she came from a wealthy family. The echoes of pagan symbols were yellow, which symbolized the sun, orange - fire, blue - the symbol of heaven and water, and brown that of the earth and symbol of nursing.
In addition, each wreath also has its own meaning:For example, if a young man pleased a girl but he himself did not hurry to confess his love to her, she would weave a "wreath of hope" for him and place it on his head at the next festive occasion. This wreath was woven from cornflowers and field poppies and it was thought that this would help to overcome indecision. Daisies and cornflowers were woven into the "Girls' wreath", the "Wreath of Love" was mainly made of daisies, with hops woven in between as a sign that the girl was not only beautiful but also clever. Married women and girls who were already engaged wove wreaths of cornflowers and lovage for themselves and their lovers. These were called "wreaths of fidelity". And when a woman came to the feast with roses and green leaves in the wreath, everyone understood that the first-born was born. And there were "Wreaths of Separation", which were given to boys and men who went to war or to work far away. The basis for these wreaths was the primrose as a symbol of fragility and the heather, as a symbol of loneliness.
Historians affirm that more than 70 types of ritual, traditional and magical wreaths, as well as wreaths of the year are known.
Embroidery - Wyschywanka
Wyschywanka (Ukrainian Вишиванка=) is the name given to traditional, East Slavic embroidery designs, which are particularly widespread in Ukrainian regions and are seen there as a national cultural asset. Wyschywankas on early medieval garments are said to have served primarily as talismans. The embroideries were especially applied in places where evil spirits could potentially enter the body of the wearer: for example along the neckline, the sleeve ends or the shoulders. The patterns date back to the early Middle Ages, but many variations were only created in the 19th century
[1] Talks with MAVKA (Artist Collective from Ukraine)
[2] Wikipedia, Letzter Zugriff: 24.02.2022, https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ukrainian_embroidery
[3] Wikipedia, Letzter Zugriff: 24.02.2022, https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ukrainian_wreath
Ukrainian headdress
The wreath of flowers with its ribbons counts as the national headdress of Ukrainian women. The wreaths were worn for centuries as amulets and bearers of secret messages. They were also necessary attributes on pagan Slavic holidays. In the Ukraine the wreath is also called the "healer of the soul", because it is believed that a wreath of flowers or fragrant herbs can relieve pain, give strength, calm but also awaken.
According to the rules, twelve flowers and herbs are to be woven into this wreath, each of which symbolises something: mallow, viburnum, herb of immortality, yarrow, forget-me-not, marigold, evergreen, lovage, cornflower, chamomile, poppy and hops.
For example, chamomile was a symbol of virgin purity, while the cornflower and lovage, which are usually intertwined close together, meant fidelity. The herb of immortality represented eternal health, the yarrow represented inflexibility, the evergreen represented immortality of the soul. The mallow was a symbol of faith and hope, viburnum meant health and everlasting beauty, and the hop represented reason and cunning. Only the colour of the poppy meant mourning for the dead, or fallen. As a rule, only widows or girls whose suitors did not return from the war were woven into the wreath.
Each ribbon with which the wreath was decorated had its meaning. For example, green was the symbol of beauty and youth, and purple that of wisdom, deep red spoke of the sincerity and warmth of the girl and pink meant that she came from a wealthy family. The echoes of pagan symbols were yellow, which symbolized the sun, orange - fire, blue - the symbol of heaven and water, and brown that of the earth and symbol of nursing.
In addition, each wreath also has its own meaning:For example, if a young man pleased a girl but he himself did not hurry to confess his love to her, she would weave a "wreath of hope" for him and place it on his head at the next festive occasion. This wreath was woven from cornflowers and field poppies and it was thought that this would help to overcome indecision. Daisies and cornflowers were woven into the "Girls' wreath", the "Wreath of Love" was mainly made of daisies, with hops woven in between as a sign that the girl was not only beautiful but also clever. Married women and girls who were already engaged wove wreaths of cornflowers and lovage for themselves and their lovers. These were called "wreaths of fidelity". And when a woman came to the feast with roses and green leaves in the wreath, everyone understood that the first-born was born. And there were "Wreaths of Separation", which were given to boys and men who went to war or to work far away. The basis for these wreaths was the primrose as a symbol of fragility and the heather, as a symbol of loneliness.
Historians affirm that more than 70 types of ritual, traditional and magical wreaths, as well as wreaths of the year are known.
Embroidery - Wyschywanka
Wyschywanka (Ukrainian Вишиванка=) is the name given to traditional, East Slavic embroidery designs, which are particularly widespread in Ukrainian regions and are seen there as a national cultural asset. Wyschywankas on early medieval garments are said to have served primarily as talismans. The embroideries were especially applied in places where evil spirits could potentially enter the body of the wearer: for example along the neckline, the sleeve ends or the shoulders. The patterns date back to the early Middle Ages, but many variations were only created in the 19th century
[1] Talks with MAVKA (Artist Collective from Ukraine)
[2] Wikipedia, Letzter Zugriff: 24.02.2022, https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ukrainian_embroidery
[3] Wikipedia, Letzter Zugriff: 24.02.2022, https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ukrainian_wreath